teaulc
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Posts posted by teaulc
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Re: PL Exclusive - Unibet Open Package Promotion - Leg 3 on 19th Sept - €3k added
try thisAnyone know the link to help PL when you download Unibet? Planning on playing tonight and haven't got an account there. The ones in Morls original post just link back to the PL front page :ok
Unibet
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Re: APAT UK Team Championship - would you like to play for Team PL? closes Fri.9th Se
i have booked further down the road, only £19 :cigar:cigarBooked in here http://www.premierinn.com/en/hotel/LUTBRA/luton-airport on Al`s advice :( Gona need a PL top too pwzzzzz -
Re: PL Variant Club League - 16 of 17 - Mon 19th Sept. - Triple Stud teaulc 74 (15) wurzel 69 (13) avongirl 65 (14) floflo 51 (12) danshot 48 (10) bagheira 42 (11) aka2 36 (8) ooblio 32(6) sirwigalot 28 (8) gem 27 (5) littlekinny 15 (3) brokerald 8 (1) Slapdash 6 (1) dodger 5 (1) goldenjag 3(1) runadrum 3 (1) staffy 3 (1) deanh 2 (1) ferryman 2 (1) skylerdyck (1)
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Re: 32Red Club32 Facebook freeroll for ECOSTT Malta 2011 / 7pm 18/9/11
with this one 2 tonight so far :okGeez, so how many tournament wins does that make for you this week, I lost count :loon p.s. Well played fella, nice one :clap -
Re: 32Red Club32 Facebook freeroll for ECOSTT Malta 2011 / 7pm 18/9/11
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Re: Genting Players Championship (£10k added) - Birmingham 24/25th Sept
good luckI'm going to this - anyone else from PL? -
Re: BlackBeltPoker Live - DTD Nottingham 18th - 20th November anyone else up for this? i am going to play day 1b and would be good to see some fellow PL`ers there
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Re: Gala Leeds 10K guaranteed good luck today Mark :hope one time
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FREEROLL to win ECOSTT Malta 2011 Tickets
32red's Facebook page CLUB32 is giving its members a free shot at qualifying for this year’s ECOSTT in Malta and thought it would be a great opportunity for you to let your players know, ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ TOURNAMENT DETAILS Tournament Name: FreeQual toECOSTT Malta Date& Time: Sunday 18thSeptember at 7pm UK Buyin:100% FREE!No deposit required. Game Details: No limit TexasHold’em, R/A Poker Lobby: ScheduledTournaments > Freeroll Password: click like then go to events for the password -
Re: Gala Leeds 10K guaranteed
34k??? jeez what fish you been eating? :okOoblio on 22k Donna on 3k Dave on 13k Me on 34k :hope -
Stud Hi/Lo
in Poker
Basics of Play for Stud 8 I very highly recommend that before playing stud hi/low, that a player is well versed with the strategies and bet rules of how to play stud-hi. Stud hi/low is also called Stud 8/b, meaning "8 or better". The dealing rules from stud-hi apply to stud hi/low. The only betting rule that is different is that a fourth street pair does not allow for a double-bet. The strategy for stud 8/b becomes much more complicated because the plays are most often multi-way with very heavy action. Reading the section on stud-hi strategy will help you to understand some basics on what to look for at a table. And since playing low also includes potentially playing for high, the strategies from there apply and become adjusted here. Highest hands win the pot, as they do in stud-hi. However, to play low, a low hand has to qualify. A hand of any five cards equal to or lower than the number 8 qualify a low hand. If a player qualifies for a low, the pot is split between the low hand and the highest hand. The object of the game is to scoop the pot (take the entire pot winnings), having the best high hand as well as the best low hand. Qualifying Lows: Five cards in a hand with numbers equal to or less than 8. The lower the series of 5 cards are, the better the low hand is. 76532 qualifies as a low. Between 76532 low vs. a low of 87652, the card with the lowest low cards wins the low side of the pot. 76532 would win this pot because the 7 is lower than the 8. If a low of 76532 played vs. 7642A The next kicker cards are used to determine which low is the lowest low to win the low side of the pot. In this case both hands have 7 and 6 in them. The next kicker card determines the winner. 764xx is the winning low against 765xx. The best low to have is 5432A. This hand also qualifies for a straight which is considered a high hand as well. Pots are not split between lows unless they are the same exact low. If your hand of 76543 which also qualifies for a high and a low, there may be a hand out there that still qualifies for a better low, allowing a pot split. 76543 vs. 7542A would be an example of a hand where the hi and the low split the pot. Many times a low will not qualify as a winning hand in stud hi-low and the highest hand will take the entire pot. This means that no player by the show-down has made a low hand. Starting Hand Combinations and Bet Strategy
The most profitable way to play hi-low at a full table is to begin with combinations that play for low contention. Any pairs, trips, flush draws or straights that you may turn along the way are a bonus for scooping. For hi/low games, you will be looking at the door cards for the following things to determine what kind of hand is best to play:
- How many low cards are on the table (number 8 or lower).
- How many high cards are at the table (number 9 or higher).
- How many of each suit is showing.
- How many duplicated cards are on the table (which cards are dead for you and for other players).
- Who is calling on a high.
- Who raises with a low door card possibly disguising a high pocket pair or better.
Starting Hands For Low Play (non-paired)
What you are looking around the table for specifically with your three-to-a-low starting hand is how many door cards on the table are also the number 8 or less. A rule of thumb when determining whether you have odds on making your low is; if there are more than 4 cards numbered 8 or less at the table including the door card in your hand, odds for drawing a low are slim. This is because most likely anyone calling also has 3 three low cards in their hand, and players with a high probably have low cards in their hand as well. With the amount of low cards already dealt around the table, fold the hand unless your combination allows outs for a strong high against the players who are playing high. Starting hands should consist of a combination of cards which allow several types of outs to catch the best hand. The first rule of thumb when playing tight at a hi-low stakes table is:
and 
and Starting Hands for Low Play (paired)
This type of starting hand is recommended only if the table is short-handed, or the table that you are at is tight, where half of the table or more is folding their starting hands.
Paired starting hands should consist of a combination of cards where you can achieve a late low with outs to a backdoor high. Sounds backwards doesn't it? Your goal here is really to make the low with this strategy, and taking the high is a bonus. A pair of kings is a trap hand, and often ends up being counterfeited with pairs of aces and better, since there are so many aces and possible straights that come into play. It takes strong discipline to drop high pocket pairs. However, doing so will save you money and frustration. So, I will reiterate; paired starting hands should consist of a combination of cards where you can achieve a late low with outs to a backdoor high. This means pairs of 8 or lower, (excluding pocket or split aces) and they should really only be played if the door cards at the table allow odds for hitting a low, your pair is not dead to making trips, and, there are no over-cards calling to play strictly for high such as J, K, Q, or A. Keep in mind that stud 8/b is nearly an entirely different game altogether and it's strategy vs. stud-hi is different.
Pocket Pair examples:
and 
Starting Hands for High Play
This type of starting hand is recommended only if the table is short-handed, or the odds for a low to qualify are very, very slim. In the case that completing a qualifying low appears to be dead at the table, high combinations can be played, expecting a full scoop of the pot. Starting hands for high play against a table of low draws should consist of cards that leave outs to high straights, flushes, and filling up to a full house. These hands should also be kept as discreet as possible so that other competitors for high don't know if you are playing for high or playing for low. Having an ace in your combination is highly preferable. Your door card should not reveal that you are playing for high unless the odds for making a low at the table are very, very slim. For example:
Pocket pair:
(see Deadly Cowboys) Aces will usually counterfeit the kings by the showdown. Seemingly the hand above is a nice hand. It has a low card in it that is suited with one of the kings if a miracle backdoor low were to happen. However, if this hand were to be played (and it shouldn't unless the odds for making a low at the table are dead), it should more preferably look like this:
A fifth street example for the discreet pocket pair hand which will keep the players guessing is:
or 
and
If the hand on the left does not catch the flush, it has outs to at least a very high pair which can double up (making two pair), and it also has possibilities to a very good low. If the hand on the right does not catch a flush, it also has outs to a double open-ended straight, and a very good low.
With a three-card flush in your hand it is advisable as well that your door card is a card that is equal to or lower than the number 8, however, if a possible flush in your suit is fully live and you have other outs, calling one bet to see the fourth street card regardless of what your door card shows is still a good play. For example:
and 
Bet Strategy
Controlling the bets and raises at the table is an especially key element. Playing for high in a high-low game runs very expensive. Once a low hand is made especially on fifth street, the low player will (and rightfully should) raise any bets made on the table to make the players who are still drawing for lows, really have to pay for it. It also makes it very expensive for the hands competing for the best high, increasing the payout even if the pot is split. On the other hand, playing a very strong starting high hand allows continuous raising to get the low draws to really pay for seeing if they will catch their lows without missing their cards. A high hand that is not in betting position should raise with their high unless there is the threat of trips, straights, and flushes that you have no outs for. Raising with a made low is a must if you are not in first position and there is no danger of a possible A2345 hand on the table. A fifth street 'made' low should always raise, except when your low is made with an 8 as one of your active cards and there is another made low on the table with a number 7 showing in their hand and you are in danger of not having the lowest low. For example:
Player 1: 
Player 2: 
Player 3: 
Player 1 in this hand has been in first betting position since fourth street. There is really no way to tell if this player has trips, turned a full house, or is playing two pair if they have continued betting without hesitation. Player 2 in this hand has an obvious low. This player would be raising the initial bet of Player 1. However... Player 3 in this hand has an obvious low and possibly a straight since fifth street. The rounds of betting would very possibly look like this on the river with a possible straight, full house, and low on the board between these three players. Assume that player 1 does have a full house. Player 2 is has been betting on a low, and player 3 is betting on a competing low and also competing for a high to scoop.
In the above table, Player 1 is betting his pair. Player 2 is calling on a low draw, Player 3 is calling either because they have a pair higher than the 8s, or is also betting on a low draw. Next:Multi-Way Bet Series For This Hand 4th Street Action Player 1 x,x,8h,8d Bet Player 2 x,x,2d,6h Call Player 3 x,x,Ah,4s Call
Player 1 has turned an ace in betting position and bets. Player two has a made low and raises with the low to get an idea of whether or not player 3 has made a straight. Player 3 simply calls. Player 2 now does not know if player 1 is playing high or low or both. If indeed Player three has made their straight which he thinks would scoop the pot, simply calling keeps the other two players in the hand to get them stuck in the hand calling until the end which will be a large pay-off if he scoops. Next:Multi-Way Bet Series For This Hand 5th Street Action Action 2 Player 1 x,x,8h,8d,Ad Bet Re-raise Player 2 x,x,2d,6h,7c Raise Call Player 3 x,x,Ah,4s,5s Call Call
Above, Player 1 who is still in betting position is raised by Player 2 who believes that Player 3 has not yet made their low or is still guessing as to what the hand consists of. Player 3 again simply calls and now it is up to player 1 to decide to either re-raise, since all players are still in, or simply call. Player 1 re-raises player 2 identifying to player 3 that his high hand is most likely better than a their straight if they have made their straight. Player 3 simply calls, again not revealing to player 2 what their hand is made with to call a re-raise. At this point player 2 should have folded to the straight draw in Player 3's hand. However the pot at this point is very big, and player 2 has a large investment in the hand already so his expense must be played to the showdown. Next:Multi-Way Bet Series For This Hand Sixth Street Action Action 2 Player 1 x,x,8h,8d,Ad,Qs Bet Re-raise Player 2 x,x,2d,6h,7c,3c Raise Call Player 3 x,x,Ah,4s,5s,Jh Call Call
Player 1 who is still in betting position is called by Player 2. Player 3 knows from the re-raise made on the sixth street that the hand that player 1 is playing is very strong. Player 3 now raises. This is a signal to player 1 that they have a sure-best low and possibly the best high if they Player 1 has not filled up with a full house by now. Player 1 and Player 3 will team up to get as much action as they can out of player 2 so that the pay-off for the possible split on the pot will be maximized, or player 3 will scoop the pot. Since player 2 is in this far he is at the mercy of the re-raising with the hopes that his low will qualify for the payout. Player 1 and player 3 re-raise to the cap, forcing player 2 to call the bets. Assuming that Player 3 had their low straight all along, the best play was to simply call raises made by Players 1 and 2 until sixth street to keep player 2 in the hand. Re-raising too early would have revealed to both players that player 3 had the straight early and Player 2 would be likely to fold. The pot would be split between player 1 and player 3 with little profit resulting from diminished action. Remember when raising in a three-way-action pot that you are not raising out the player with the sure losing hand. If you raise too much too soon they will fold and the potential profit is diminished. Where to Raise Fairly assume that any hand you go into at a Stud 8/b table is going to be split. Maximum profitability for the time and energy involved in this game should not be taken lightly. Too many split pots is equivalent to no profit except to the card room that is taking the rake each hand. Not to mention all of the ante money that is spent waiting to catch a hand that ends up winning. Using the following strategy assumes that you know when to fold a hand regardless of how much of an investment has been made on your part. As a general rule of thumb, if you have a playable starting hand, complete the bet if it has not been done already, and do not give the bring-in a free card. This is all-to-often seen at the tables encouraging split pots that would probably not have been split if the bring-in were to be raised out. If you are the high draw calling to play the hand, by not completing the bet it encourages being counterfeited on later streets. I do encourage an opening three-bet rule at a stud 8 table to maximize profit. This is a standard for professional play and is not often seen at the tables online as most players are shy on draws and do not bring a bankroll to the table large enough to handle the variances that occur with this type of play. More information regarding this type of strategy is also located in the Advanced Strategy section of the site, and should also be used when playing tournaments. If you hold three cards to a low, with the bring-in in front of you:Multi-Way Bet Series For This Hand River Action Action 2 Action 3 Player 1 x,x,8h,8d,Ad,Qs,x Bet Re-raise Call Player 2 x,x,2d,6h,7c,3c,x Call Call Call Player 3 x,x,Ah,4s,5s,Jh,x Raise Re-raise - And an Ace in front of you with no complete bet made, complete the bet.
- And an Ace in front of you with a complete bet made, re-raise.
- And an Ace behind you, with or without a complete bet made, simply call.
- And an Ace behind you re-raises, simply call.
Basically, three-bet any hands that have an ace in front of you, and simply call when there is an Ace behind you. The reasoning for this is to lock out any other players who do not have a competitive scooping hand while allowing you to freeroll your bets once you have made a low. An Ace calling in late position is often noted as being in contention for a scoop, which is why you will simply call. Early position door-card aces that make complete bets or call complete bets are usually in contention for taking the high end of the pot which is often counterfeited by the late callers with three-card straights and three-card flushes. 33% of the time hands are won with no low. This is why it is important to maximize the amount of profit early on assuming that the pot will be split. By raising you are cutting out starting hand combinations that not only shut out other low draws, it increases the percentage of you turning your low draw into the high hand that will scoop the pot when your cards pair. What this also does is allows other players to fold down when they see that you have an 'obvious low, and they are basically 'giving' you the pot not knowing if you are also threatening to scoop if the hand continues to the river. While the pots may be won little pots at a time, the dollars do add up, especially if they are not being split. This is, of course, to your benefit. On fourth street:
- If your hand contains a one-card draw to a low, and players are checking to you, bet.
- If your hand contains a one-card draw to a low, and a bet is made, raise.
- If your hand contains a one-card draw to a low and there is a raise ahead of you, re-raise.
- If your hand contains a one-card draw to a flush or a straight vs. a hand that is obviously calling with high pair(s) raise.
- If you have hit a brick such as a paint card and there is at least one obvious low at the table that is betting, fold.
- If you started your hand with a three-card flush and you have hit a card that does not improve your hand to hitting what you originally intended, (a flush or a low) then fold the hand.
- If you have made two high pair without the threat of a flush or a straight and there is an obvious low on the board, check to the low if you know they will bet out, and then raise. (not using the low to produce a check-raise is often overlooked and is what helps create the most profit out of the hand in a multi-way pot that is sure to be split).
- And another hand obviously has a low or is representing to have a low that does not show the threat of a straight, check-raise if you know that they will bet out. It is likely that they may have a low as well, however with a high playing the board you will want to maximize profit should the other low actually not be the low, or even not be the best low.
- If an obvious high pair hand is betting out with over-cards to other high-hand players simply call or you will raise other players out of the pot, minimizing potential profit.
- If an obvious high pair hand is betting out and there are flush and straight draws at the table, it is wise to raise in this case, because the straight and flush draws will most likely pay to see the next card.
If you have the high in a multi-way pot:
- And there is a low on the board, check to the low and then raise.
- And there is no low on the board, continue to bet. If you carry high two-pair such as AA535 vs a hand showing QK79 that bets out, raise.
- One-card draw to an open-ended straight, a flush and a low, or any one-card draw combination that allows for two or more outs.
All three of the cards in your starting hand should be the number 8 or less, with no pairs, preferably with matching suits and/or connectors for straight and flush possibilities. The lower the card numbers are, the better. Having an ace in your hand is a big plus. An ace gives you outs to also play high and possibly take control of raising at the table. Paired combinations will be discussed in later strategies. Best starting low hands are three cards numbered from 2 through 5. This allows outs for both inside and outside straight draws which would possibly win both the high and low end, scooping the pot. Having at least two of the cards in the same suit also provides outs to a flush if the flush is still live at the table. For example: The hand on the left has suited connectors. Middle hand is rainbowed, on the bottom is a connected three-flush. The best hand to start with, of course, is the hand on the right which has the most outs. With the hand on the right, even if there is no low possible at the table because the low is dead, you may still draw to a flush. If there is no flush possible, you have outs to a straight, and by some miracle, even if the odds for a low are slim, you may end up with one accidentally while drawing for the flush or the straight. Remember when you are playing these types of hands, the cards that you need to make your second pair or trips should be live. Except for aces, pocket pairs for low play should really only be played at a table that is short handed. Three-card straights and three-card flushes all with numbers 8 or lower are also excellent starting hands for low play. As I mentioned earlier, playing a pair of kings is usually a big mistake with all of the aces in play in hi-low and should usually be folded usually right away. With the 4c being the door card, the rest of the table has no idea whether you are playing for high or for low until about fifth street, depending on the next cards that turn for you. A hand like this is very strong as long as there are no threats of paired aces, trips or flushes showing at the table, as well ace aces that turn up that may have paired. The strength of this hand is that the fifth street turn of the 6d is a scare card. Meaning that anyone in contention for the high sees that you have either a possible low, a straight or a scoop. It is also a scare card for players drawing lows because your hand appears to have cards that would make one of the best lows or have outs to the best low of A2345. Other fifth street examples of this hand that may cause some serious confusion for other players is: Catching a high card early in the hand may confuse them into thinking that you caught a bad card and that you are continuing play hoping to catch one last low card to qualify a low hand. Naturally, on sixth street if you have not caught a second pair to couple with your kings, you are in danger of losing to a hand that has caught bad cards that appears to be playing for a low. For example: This hand appears to be playing for a low with no obvious threat of a flush or trips. Keep in mind that straights are always a threat in stud hi-low and are often well hidden, if not, rivered. However, the hand is actually being called with the player playing for high with: The player initially called this hand because it qualified to achieve a low with outs to a back door high. This hand now has two pair on sixth street vs. the hand with pair of kings. Because this type of hand is only usually played at a short handed table, the kings are favored to pair also making a backdoor low even with the other hand showing two low pair on fifth street. However, at the same time, at a short-handed table, the low two-pair also has odds on a backdoor low and has odds on rivering a full house. Odds for the pair of kings to make a full house are slim this late in the hand, yet still possible. (Anything can happen in poker!) Being that both hands are showing lows at a short-handed table, the action at the table dwindles because of the confusion over who is playing what. Most likely there will be no raising under the assumption that both hands have a low and it is a matter of who's is better. If both players know that they are playing for high, still the action is very little because there are no obvious tells on what kind of high each player is playing for. This is why playing with high pairs at a hi-low table is not recommended unless the high pair contains pocket or split aces. The action is sparse and it is often a waste of time and effort for a small pot unless a scoop is imminent. For three card flushes: Your combinations for playing three-card flushes should include as many outs as possible to a high and/or a low in case your cards do not catch. For example: Both of the hands above are showing door cards that reveal you are playing for high. The other players may put you on several different combinations, which they will never know for sure as long as you are aggressively either betting, calling or raising the hand. At minimum they will put you on a pair of jacks or a higher pocket pair with the jack as your kicker. They may also put you on having two low cards for a late low with one of the cards being an ace. Be very aware that when you have revealed to the table that you are playing for high, that when a fifth or sixth street low is made and you are still in the hand, the expense will go up with the low hand raising to make you and your other high-play competitor pay for the split. My rule for door card aces: (adjusted from the stud-hi section for hi-low) When beginning to establish myself at a table, (and certainly a disputable strategy), is; do not play a door card ace unless you can raise with it. If other players are seeing you fold your ace, later on when you do raise your ace with nothing in your hand you will most likely take the pot without seeing the river or showing down. It allows room for bluffing. Playing raise-or-fold with your door-card ace will save frustration and stress in later rounds. It will also confuse the players as to how you are playing your ace. A low? Pair? Flush? Straight? This is a rainbowed starting hand, meaning that odds to make a flush begins dead. There are also no odds on this hand to make a straight. If there are other door card aces at the table, the ace is most likely dead or already paired in someone else's hand. Raising the ace here would be detrimental and most likely seen as a blatant bluff. If there are no other aces facing up at the table you can take your chances with raising, hoping that someone doesn't have a nice flush-draw, straight-draw, or pocket pair combo in their hand. It may be worth a cheap call if you hope to turn other aces or nines, but really, early at the table, I personally wouldn't bother with this hand because it lacks many outs for bettering the hand. Aces to raise with in hi-low are hidden pocket pairs with the ace as your door card, pocket and split aces, three-card flushes, and three-card outside straights. At a hi-low table, depending on the types of players at your table, it can be to your advantage to slow-play pocket or split aces to keep the action going with other players competing for the high. It also prevents them from knowing that you have a strong hand and what direction you are playing the hand. (High or low). Calling with pocket or split aces is also a way to get in the hand cheaply as the later streets begin to reveal straights and flushes. Remember that in hi-low, aces are often dead and your pair of aces may be outdone by low-card trips that get caught on fifth and sixth street. For example: The low pair that just turned in this hand could very well be a hidden three-of-a kind and even possibly a fifth street full house. As usual, when a fourth street pair shows on the board, fold your hand unless you have one more draw card to a low. Even still, it is best to just fold the hand while the pot is small since continuing on a low draw will cost at least one more bet and the pot will most likely be split anyway and both players push. (no loss or gain, just time spent betting and calling for little reason). It could also be the case that the player with a fourth street pair may not only have trips, they may also have a very excellent chance at sweeping the pot with a potential low with three more draw cards. Be disciplined, save money and fold. -
7 Card Stud
in Poker
Re: 7 Card Stud Counting Cards: The idea behind counting cards in seven card stud is to create an advantage for determining hands, and calling and raising bets. Counting cards and suits becomes easier with experience, and over time, becomes more and more second nature. Counting cards in stud isn't necessarily making a check-list of all of the cards that are out of play and having to memorize the cards for each and every hand. Don't give up on this strategy because it sounds difficult. It is probably one of the most important strategies to use to increase your winnings. The more people that are in the hand, the easier it is to determine which cards are live, and what type of hands are playing. If you are playing online and have selected the option of using the four-colored deck, card counting is much easier. The method of card counting that I use at low limit tables and stud 8/b with family pots can be compared to "connect the dots". With this type of card counting you are using your own hand as the main reference for knocking dead hands and cards off of the list of possibilities. When the first round deal is completed, look at all of the door cards. Read which cards are out that you would need to make any type of connected straight, inside or out. You do not need to memorize these numbers. Just know that you should probably consider the cards dead if you have one or more of them in your hand and you need it/them to make a pair or better. If you have 69J, you will be looking at door cards on the table for any 5, 7, 8, T, and Q, as well as any other 6, 9, or J to pair your hand. With the example starting hand above you are not playing for a straight when you are counting the cards. (I would hope you would pick a better opener for a straight) You are only using this as a reference of what cards are out. At the end of the first comparison you have now potentially either added or eliminated 8 cards from the deck not including the card numbers in your own hand. Count the number of same suits in comparison to your hand to make a flush. This will give you a general idea of what type of flush is dead, and which type of flush is still live. You do not need to memorize how many of each suit is out, just what type of flush is potentially dead and what is live. On fourth street: Once again you will be looking at the cards at the table for anything that would have potentially given your hand a straight or a flush to eliminate cards from the deck, the types of hands being played, and how live the cards in your hand are. This potentially eliminates another 8 cards from the deck as well, and begins to give you an idea of what hands other players are betting and calling with so that you have a better idea of when to fold. When checking the flush draws you will be looking at any double suited 4th street cards in a hand. For example, if there were too many hearts on the table at the door and you see a hand that has two hearts up on fourth street with yet more hearts on the table, most likely the possibility for a heart flush is not a threat. It is especially evident that a player is on a draw if they are calling with low or medium cards with other overcards at the table. Also beware of higher pocket pairs and potentially two pair on fourth street which leaves the possibility open for an early full house. On fifth street: The type of hands being played becomes more obvious. Find the cards again that would have potentially given your hand a straight or a flush. Check for the live or dead cards that would make your hand. Use the past information you have collected to determine who is drawing to straights and flushes. Be aware of overcards to your hand that are calling. Pay attention to who is checking and where to perhaps get an idea of which card was potentially their strength. (For example someone checked when they turned a J and bet when they turned a 7). Check the cards for anything that is duplicated on the board such as a K appearing in three different hands. There should be several duplicates on the board between fifth and sixth street and they can usually be considered dead to being paired in someone's hand. This is especially helpful when determining if the King that re-raised the bring-in was bluffing a split pair or has a high pocket pair and used the king for leverage to intimidate other medium paired starting hands. If you or anyone else has cards in their hand that would make someone else's straight, they are still potentially on a draw, however do not underestimate that they may have made their straight on fifth or still have one live inside or outside card for that hand to be made. On fifth street beware of any pairs appearing on the board that could potentially have given a player three of a kind. Also beware of any straight draws. At a full table with a lot of callers you have seen nearly half of the deck of cards. Determine if any fifth street flushes that appear are still potentially live. With practice, by fifth and sixth street at a low limit stud-hi table, you will most likely know what type of hands are playing a good percentage of the time. You will also have a solid grasp of what cards are still live for you to make a weak hand stronger, or possibly out draw players with early made hands by the river.
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Re: PL Variant Club League - 16 of 17 - Mon 19th Sept. - Triple Stud
http://forum.punterslounge.com/f62/7-card-stud-121532/#post2016908Saved me asking the question. :ok So I'll ask a different one..... Have we any strat threads on stud? I just need some guidance on starting hands really. I either seem to fold everything or lose all my chips chasing and not hitting in stud. :( Maybe I'll just play the razz round. :lol -
7 Card Stud
in Poker
Tournament Basics Tournament strategy for poker is very technical. Tournament play is the ultimate test of all of your skills as a 7 card stud player. Adjustment, timing and position is crucial. In later rounds, bluffing becomes almost a 'responsibility' as the blinds and antes go up, as well as the starting hand combinations for tournament play must get looser. Raising and re-raising also becomes more aggressive. Throughout the game, playing in position, knowing when to fold and when to re-raise is of absolute importance, on top of counting cards and suits, reading your opponents and keeping note of the chip stacks. For 7 card stud tournament play, the general rules are usually as follows:
- The game rules for 7 card stud hi and hi/low remain unchanged.
- All players initially buy-in to the tournament at the same cost, and all players at the table hold an equal amount of chips when the tournament begins.
- Some card rooms offer re-buys. (Within a particular time limit you can buy-in for additional chips to continue the tournament if you bust, or add to your current stack of chips for an additional fee to the one you paid to start the tournament).
- Payouts are divided according to the prize pool, type of tournament, (single table or multi-table), and how many total players are enter the tournament.
- The tournaments are broken into 'round levels'.
Round levels determine the ante, and min/max table bets. These levels raise depending on the rules of the card room. They may be on a timer (e.g., levels raised every 15 minutes). Often they are raised every 10th hand. A rough example of the levels is as follows:
Level Chip Ante Chip Bet Level I 2 5/10 Level II 5 10/20 Level III 10 20/40 Level IV 15 30/60 Level V 30 60/120 Level VI 40 80/160 Level VII 50 100/200 Level VIII 100 200/400 Level IX 200 400/800 Level X 300 500/1000 For online play the screen will usually tell you which level and which round/hand the table is at. (e.g., Level III, Hand #8). In this case you know that there are two more hands that will be dealt before the level moves to Level IV where the ante and bet minimums will increase. Especially for tournament play where the prize pools or the buy-ins are large and you are not necessarily there to test the water or kill time, be well rested, 100% focused and clear with the ability to count the cards and suits, and get an early read on players. Play to win. The position you have with the cards in your hand is crucial at all times when determining whether to go in on a hand.
- Be aware of your position in relation to the bring in and the cards behind you at all times.
Tips on Position
In the early rounds of the tournament when the fun is just beginning there may very well be these personalities at the table. It will be important to identify these types of players to adjust your play right away. Some tables are very laid back, everyone focused and playing patiently and competitively, while other tables may be incredibly aggressive.
- The 'Now or Never' Player
The 'now or never' player will begin the first level aggressively with the mindset that if they are not going to have a significant lead in the first three or so levels, it will not be worth their time to continue lingering in the tournament. Usually the player will call many hands, either legitimately or in the hopes that they will end up catching great hands with questionable combinations, or raise very aggressively to steal pots, bluff, or raise better hands out with mediocre hands. Unfortunately, in the early rounds this player may be difficult to identify because the player may very well be on a rush with excellent starting hand combinations. However, if the player is re-raising in early rounds, it is an obvious tell that the player wants an early and significant chip lead, and doesn't want to bother with hanging out for several hours to find out that they will end up in 6th place. One of the pros of having or being this type of player at a table is certainly the cost of time spent. It also knocks the weaker players out earlier, and can significantly raise the amount of chips in the stack if the hands are won. This also either causes the table to play tighter, or tilt players into playing looser with questionable combinations with reluctance to fold. They will usually mellow out their play after they are comfortable with their chip stack. The goal of this player is to have an early and strong lead. On the contrary, the investment of chips and the loss of a couple of hands will severely handicap the player's ability to use the chip stack as leverage on any hand they call. By the time this has occurred other players will have identified the aggressive player and adjust to that players game by playing just as aggressively to knock the player off of the table.
- The Lawn Chair Player
- The Tightwad
This player comes in for few hands with a high win percentage at or before the showdown. This type of player is fairly obvious. Watching the (few) amount of hands they play, how often they check, and their ability to fold, has most likely kept their chip stack even, or slightly up. This type of player is patient and is not usually worried about the amount of chips they have in the early rounds as long as they remain even or have a decent stack that averages the rest of the table. They will generally limp in, and not raise the bring-in, they will wait for someone else to do it for them and simply call. This player will also normally not re-raise any raises. They will either check, call, or fold. (Unless of course they are toting a flush or a full house.) Being this type of player at a table, other players will often fold down knowing that you have an excellent combination of cards. It will keep you in the game hopefully until other players have busted out. It also keeps the chip stack competitive. On the contrary, the pots are not big for this type of player, because when this player is in a hand, others will know that they are competing against a good hand. This player's chip stack will, for the most part, remain constantly even. For a player that is hoping just to get to the seat that has the prize pool money regardless of whether it is 4th place, this is probably the type of player that will make it there. Before long this type of player will adjust their strategy in later levels to increase their chip stack potential, but really only after a few players have busted out already.
- Honest Abe
Player Modus Operandi In the early rounds of the game while developing a read on the players, the game will usually start one of two ways. In some respects, as a tournament begins, it's as if the green light at the Drag Races just turned and everyone is racing to the finish line. Many people are calling, few people are folding, pots are seemingly large. Alternatively, you could be at a table where, at first, few people are calling just to get their feet wet and do not want to risk losing too many chips too early. My advice for beginning a tournament is to play as if your entire bankroll were on the line, whatever that means to you. This will hopefully help to ground your processes of thinking when deciding to go in on a hand. If at that time your entire bankroll means to play tight, play tight. If it means to play aggressively, play aggressively as if to double it up. Go with whatever playing your bankroll would mean to you at the time, AND always play intelligently. Do not play shyly, and do not play defensively. If your frame of mind is to play either of these ways, your odds for being in the tournament to get to one of the money seats is not very probable.
- Observe yourself. Your frame of mind, your focus, your confidence, your presence, your attitude and feel for winning, your attitude about what you want out of the game and what you want or expect out of the cards and other players. Make adjustments where necessary now, not later.
- Observe the other players. Their demeanor is important to pay attention to.
- Keep your perspective on the chips. Losing 2 or 3 hands in the early rounds is equivalent to winning only 1 hand in a later round, so don't panic if you've started with 1000 chips and you're down to 600 or 700 chips on bad beats. Be patient. Adjust your strategy. Chip stacks really mean little at this stage in relation to what they mean beginning at Level III and later.
The early rounds of a tournament should be spent studying your opponents and playing good combinations with little concern for the stack of chips in front of you or in front of anyone else. Do not forget that your position in relation to the bring-in and the cards behind you at this stage is crucial.
Early Rounds Getting over the mid-game hump in 7 card stud is the most difficult and technical part of the tournament. By mid-game, if you have been attentive and focused you should have a very good read on most or all of your opponents. By now, a couple of players at your table have already busted out. Mid game is the most crucial part of the game to determine advancement to the final table or the top 4 at a single table. Most players tighten up significantly or loosen up significantly with their combinations. Middle of the road callers will quickly be eliminated. Coming in for a hand becomes a great expense of chips, pot wins are significantly high, and pot plays are mostly three way or heads-up. Bluffing becomes more and more of a key strategy. During mid game play the chip stacks are now relevant to the hands you will play, (whereas, before they did not hold very much weight). This is in addition to taking note of the cards behind you and your position in relation to the bring-in when deciding to go in. During mid game with less people in a multiway pot, the biggest hand threats become three of a kind, straights, and full houses. Because there are less people in the pot to aid with odds to a flush (there needs to be approximately 4-5 people in the hand usually for odds to achieve your flush). My advice for mid game strategy adjustment is as follows:
- Continue to play well, mixing up your strategies. Adjust to number of people at the table playing hands when another player busts out. Strategy vs. 5 people changes vs. 8 people. Adjust. Adjust. Adjust.
- Consider to begin bluffing or for pots and ante stealing more often, raising with any door card ace that is showing. Check-raise when you have the opportunity.
- Be alert of the other chip stacks. The short stacks will play hands in desperation either with loose combinations because they have given up hope, or, they will play extremely tightly, so you know that they have a decent hand and most likely are not bluffing.
- If someone is about to bust off of the table in just a few bets and another person is in with them, either check, bet to let them know you have a hand so that they will fold and you can bust the short stack off of the table, or fold on the first brick you turn and get out of the way so that the other player can bust them off of the table.
- When there is an all-in at the table with a family pot and there is betting going on, pay attention the cards turning in that player's hand!
Although it may seem silly, people really actually forget when they are betting against another player in a multi way pot that there is an all-in at the table who's cards may very well be the best of them all. I've seen multi-way bets continuing against all-in players showing high straights and flushes, which protects the all-in player from busting out, especially if the flush and straight was completely live. The percentage of the pot they may win will keep them in the tournament possibly twice as long as they should have been, and probably give them enough chips to make a recovery where they could have just as easily busted out the next hand if they were not protected by the betting going on in the first place. Do not forget about the all-in. They may have decided to go all in for a very good reason and not just because they were keeping their fingers crossed and hoping for the best. If you were playing well enough and catching great cards to make it through the mid game section of the tournament, congratulations and best of success on your end game.
Mid Game
End game forces an entire shift in strategy, and adjustment to the number of players at the table. For the purposes of explanation, end game is considered here to consist of a table of three players or less. Most hands are played heads up, and hand bluffing becomes a good percentage of the hands being played. Anything can happen short-handed. The biggest threats heads up are higher two pair and three of a kind, as flushes are still unlikely to show at a short-handed table. Odds to completing a straight also decrease, however they are still a strong possibility, especially if the pot has all three players in the hand. The pressure to take pots increases as the ante's and bet limits become overwhelming and the loss of only one hand can severely handicap any leverage that a player may have. Any player to win a pot at the higher levels will usually be doubled up, or close to doubled up on their chip stack. Counting cards and suits has little relevance as there are not enough players in hands to get an accurate estimate of anything. My recommendation for end game strategy is as follows:
- Do not limp into a hand. Either raise the bring-in or fold. If you are the bring in, raise or re-raise any callers to give credit to your hand as being one that is strong. If any scare cards come into your hand this will add credibility when betting out.
- Continue to follow the mid game adjustment recommendations, being aware of the chip stacks, steering clear of battling with all-ins unless you have the best hand with possibilities for several outs, and raising with any door card ace in your hand if the combination will allow you to play the hand. By this right, you should never call or raise with an ace showing at the table in someone else's hand unless you have an ace in your own hand that allows for a combination with plenty of outs.
- Do not be afraid to bet with nothing in your hand when scare cards drop into your hand and you are in betting position. Often times other players will not want to afford calling bets at this stage with over cards unless they really have something worth calling to the river.
- Do not be afraid of raising out other players, regardless of their chip stack unless you are the one who is the short stack.
- A good way to mix up the strategy is to play raise or fold.
If the other players have not been accustomed to you raising or re-raising, now is the perfect time to do it with strong combinations. Raise with every hand. Raise any bets. Re-raise any raises when you've turned overcards. Do not cut any slack. Do not be consistent with raise or fold strategy. For a short period of time this will afford you a nice stack of chips usually scaring them out of the hand. Once they are on to your strategy, however, tighten up the game once again. In one sense this also speeds up the amount of time the tournament lasts. The final three is really survival of the fittest and who is able to adapt and outplay other players based on the cards that are turning and not necessarily what the actual hand consists of. Do not be careless with raising and re-raising. Sometimes this strategy will fail at the cost of many chips. Acknowledge when bluff attempts have failed while in a hand and fold down gracefully. If you end up heads up at a table battling for first place. Cut no slack. Raise or fold. Again, if you are the bring-in and want to play the hand and your opponent raises, re-raise if your combination is strong, and acknowledge to them that your hand is legitimately competitive, and any scare cards that turn will hopefully get them to fold down. Fold if your combination is weak. Do not play against a hand that has a door card ace showing unless you have a three flush with all face cards in your hand, or a suited ace in the pocket with high kickers. If you are both showing Aces, fold down if you are the bring-in and do not have a pair. Call if the other person calls, fold if the other player raises.
End Game Strategy
At a multi-table tournament, being moved to a new table can seriously affect your chip stack, just as well as you can be affected by other players being moved to your table. Keep in mind that with the ever-changing adjustments you are making during play, you must re-evaluate any new players that move to your table, just as you would evaluate an entire table if you have moved to a new one. You may be now playing with opponents who have come from an aggressive table and will continue to play aggressively. If you were at a more mild and tactical table you may have just been moved to an aggressive table where you are folding down great hands needlessly. The pressure of time is heavy when antes and bet limits are increasing, so there is not a lot of time to determine what type of player(s) you are now sitting with. Hopefully you will have a few hands to observe them play and see a few showdowns before getting into a hand with them. If not, assume that any raises and re-raises that come from new players at a table is simply that they are playing aggressive strategy. On another note, when moving to a new table, using an aggressive strategy to open with your first hands will often win you a nice pot or two before they determine that you may have probably come from an aggressive table. Make re-adjustments to the table accordingly after taking a few hands that you've scared people out of, so that they are not able to read you right away. For each new table determine as quickly as possible which strategy will fit best. Play as you would in the early rounds while early at the table. When 2-3 players have busted off of the table, switch to mid-game strategy. Play end game strategy when there are 4 players at the final table, or there are 2 tables left and there are 4 people left at the table you are at. When you move to the final table with 8 players, play mid game strategy until there are 4 players left.
Multi-Table Notes -
Re: PL Variant Club League - 16 of 17 - Mon 19th Sept. - Triple Stud seven card stud (high) razz stud 8 or better (hi/lo) Triple Stud Poker Game Rotation If you are seated in a full Stud game, there will typically be eight players at the table. Triple Stud will rotate between the three Stud games listed above, with eight hands of each game being played before the next one begins. The rotation begins with Stud High, moves onto Razz and finishes with Stud Eight or Better (also known as Stud Hi/Lo) before Stud High begins again. How to Play Triple Stud In all the games played in Triple Stud, the basic rules are similar, but the objective of each game varies. Throughout the course of each hand, players receive several cards face-down (called hole cards) and several cards face-up (called up cards or door cards). They must attempt to make the best five-card poker hand by using any combination of the eventual seven cards they will receive. Determining the best hand is different for each Stud variation. In classic Seven Card Stud, players compete for the best high hand, while in Razz they are looking for the best qualifying low hand. In Stud Eight or Better, players attempt to make the best high and low hands. If you are unfamiliar with how poker hands are ranked, check out the poker hand rankings page for more information. All of the games in Triple Stud are played with betting limits. This means that all bets and raises must be made in specified amounts, depending on what game you are playing. In limit games on PokerStars, there are a maximum of four bets permitted on each betting round before the pot has been ‘capped’. For example, if one player bets and there are three raises that follow, the third raise will cap the pot, and there will be no more bets allowed until the next betting round.
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Re: PL Variant Club League - 16 of 17 - Mon 19th Sept. - Triple Stud sorry for the delay in sorting out the league table,no excuses, will try and get done either tonight or tomorrow. penultimate game = Triple Stud gonna be a lot of fun and beats with this one :ok
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which one is Helen ;)Found some Final table pics of Helen ;)
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i am not even going to ask how you came up with a name like that :loon:loonI'm the FlukeyInbred :ok -
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Re: Black Belt Poker League X1 starts 23rd Aug. 7.30pm
Guessing that's a tough game' date=' very well done. :clap[/quote'] thanks Helen,yes i have to say this is probably one of my most satisfying wins as there are so many good players in this league. especially when i was down to 500 chips early doors and my 5/6 all in beat A/K :cigar
APAT UK Team Championship - PL Team Selected .... Good Luck
in Poker
Posted
Re: APAT UK Team Championship - would you like to play for Team PL? closes Fri.9th Se
i am at the premier inn about 5 miles away as i am a cheap skate,only £19